How To: Build an Oil Filter Relocator

by Toysrme | December 3, 2005 9:21 pm

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Four – 3/8″ barbs (3/8″ = 9.5mm)
Four 3/8″ hose clamps
6′ 3/8″ Fuel/Oil hose
Ultra Black RTV
You will need a tap for your barbs if you don’t have one. $2.50 shipped – ebay

There isn’t anything to say that isn’t obvious. Take the stock Toyota oil filter stand- off & cut it in half. Tap (& drill if needed) the channels to accept your hose barbs. Put your sealant around the threads & tighten (15ft-lb, or pretty hand tight is good enough).
From there you have the one end that bolts to the block & the other that has the oil filter. You can relocate it anywhere you want. You can easily add dual filters, and/or an auxiliary oil cooler.
The half where the oil filter goes is pre-tapped with two plugs at the ends of the oil channels. One can be removed to install an oil pressure fitting, or a hose barb (1/4″, or 3AN) if you need a turbo / supercharger oil supply.


For people not able to drill out their own channels, it may be hard to find 3/8″ barbs that do not require drilling holes out before tapping them. I had my local Nut & Bolt house order me some to my specification. (9/16″-18 NPT w’ 3/8″ barb)

*Note* If you’re not afraid of under sizing the , 5/16″ barbs are very common. The thread size is generally 9/16″-18 thread. The tap will fit straight into the oil channels without drilling.
So if 3/8″ barbs are unavailable, you can always try common 5/16″ barbs. (0.375″ VS 0.3125″). I wouldn’t add a cooler on 5/16″ lines, but otherwise there shouldn’t be a problem.

This part is used only on the 3.0L Camry platform as far as I know. The reason for the part is because the y-pipe does not give clearance for the oil filter.
This will bolt to any 3vz-fe, 1mz-fe, 3vz-e, and 5vz-fe. Possibly other VZ/MZ v6’s.

Here’s the 3vz block – (3vz-e picture)





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