Adjusting The Clutch Pedal
Ok I’ve read “Path To Shifting Nirvana” And it wasn’t quite clear to me on how to actually adjust the pedal. So I took some a picture and figured I would do it again.
Tools:
- 12mm Wrench
- 14mm Wrench
- Flashlight/Worklight
- Pair of Regular Pliers
1. Loosen the 14mm lock nut on the top of the pedal stop bolt.
2. Loosen the bolt so that the pedal moves towards you. (You will tighten it later in step 9)
3. Now using both the 14mm and the 12mm wrenches you will need to loosen the 12mm lock nut on the rod while holding the rod with the 14mm.
4. Now you can twist the rod to adjust the height of the pedal.
One Full Twist Equals About A 1/2 Inch Of Pedal Movement.
Now when looking at the two pictures above. If you want to make the engagement of clutch CLOSER to the floor then you will want to twist the rod Counter-Clockwise.
If you want the engagement of the clutch FARTHER from the floor rotate the rod Clockwise
*I had to use the pliers here to adjust the rod.*
5. At this point I like to start the car while in neutral. Once started make sure you can easily get it into 1st.
A. If it is hard to get into first then your engagement is set too low. Go back to step 4 and readjust the pedal out farther from the floor.
B. If it goes in easily then you want to go ahead and test to see where the new engagement point is by SLOWLY letting the clutch out.
I like my clutch almost on the floor. Maybe about half an inch off. Which is probably the very least that you should do. You need to set it where you feel comfortable6. Shut off car.
7. Now repeat steps 4, 5, and 6 until the engagement point is where you want it.
8. Now that it clutch is engaging where you want it you will need to re tighten the 12mm lock nut. Don’t forget to use the 14mm to hold the rod.
Now we are going to adjust the pedal stop.
I like the pedal to engage the clutch fully then move back about another 1/2 inch. That way there is no free play in the clutch pedal at all.
9. You should be able to move the clutch pedal by hand. And you should be able to feel where the clutch begins to disengage. (It’s the part where the pedal becomes very hard to push) Push the pedal in until it is at about the point where the clutch wants to disengage.
10. While holding the clutch pedal there begin to tighten the stop bolt (not the lock nut) until it touches the pedal.
Tightening down the stop bolt will make disengagement closer to the floor.
Loosening the stop bolt will make disengagement farther from the floor.
11. Now it is time to go drive the car. Noting where the engagement/disengagement points are in reference to the floor/stop bolt.
**You should be able to move the clutch off the floor at least half an inch before engagement begins. If not then you are not fully disengaging the clutch and will wear it out much quicker.**
**You should also be able to push the clutch in at least half an inch before disengagement begins. If not you are not fully engaging the clutch and will wear it out much quicker.**
12. Go back and repeat steps 9, 10, and 11 until disengagement is where you want it.
13. Tighten down the 14mm lock nut.
14. Now go drive the car and enjoy it. If any of your engagement/disengagement points feel off. Don’t be afraid to go ahead and adjust them. It only takes a minute and sometimes takes a couple tries to get right.
Editors notes: The standard freeplay is 5-15mm. The standard push rod play is 1-5mm. The standard release point is 25mm or more.
This documentation in no way replaces the Toyota MR2 Repair Manuals. The purpose of this content is only to provide supplementary information to fellow MR2 enthusiasts. Midship Runabout and its contributing authors will not be held responsible for any injury or damages that may occur as the result of practicing any of the methods or procedures described within this website. Article and photo submissions are property of the contributing author.
