by Les | June 14, 2007 2:24 pm
I noticed the only info for this is a link to Spyder Chat so I made a record when replacing mine, if it’s any use you can use it
While having my tyres replaced I noticed the rear discs & pads were getting worn/corroded and as the MOT is due next month I thought it best to replace them to give time for bedding in.
Here again is a picture record of how it was done (showing rust and all) using tools not necessarily recommended by the manufacturer
JACK UP
SUPPORT CAR
REMOVE WHEEL
REMOVE SLIDER BOLT (12mm RING SPANNER)
ONCE BOLT IS REMOVED
PIVOT UP THE PISTON ASSEMBLY AND SLIDE OFF TOP PIN (This can be a little awkward but it is doable)
YOU CAN NOW REMOVE THE PADS WITH ANTI SQUEAL SHIMS
REMOVE TOP & BOTTOM CALIPER SUPPORT BOLTS (17mm RING SPANNER)
THE OLD DISC CAN NOW BE REMOVED 9There are two drawing holes if needed)
I USED A “WIND BACK” TOOL PURCHASED FROM HALFORDS FOR £19
THIS WAS MORE THAN ADEQUATE FOR THE JOB
WHEN DOING THIS REMOVE THE BRAKE RESERVOIR CAP AND DRAIN OFF THE EXCESS FLUID (As shown in the front brake replacement)
AFTER WINDING BACK THE PISTONS
ROTATE THE SLOTS AS IN PICTURE TO ACCOMMODATE DOWEL IN BRAKE PAD
CLEAN OFF AND LIGHTLY COAT ANTI SQUEAL SHIMS WITH COPPER GREASE
SQUEEZE SPRING CLIPS ON TOP AND BOTTOM OF CARRIER TO LOCATE SLOTS ON PAD NEAREST TO YOU
THE REAR PAD JUST SLOTS IN TO CARRIER (Note that I put a nut on the new disc to hold in place while assembling)
SLOT THE PISTON ASSEMBLY ON TO SLIDER (Again this is a bit awkward but doable)
REPLACE SLIDER BOLT AND JOB IS DONE
BEFORE MOVING OFF START THE ENGINE, PRESS HARD ON THE BRAKE PEDAL THREE OR FOUR TIMES THEN APPLY THE HANDBRAKE THREE OR FOUR TIMES (This should take up the adjustment)
Hope this helps
Source URL: https://midshiprunabout.org/mk3/replacing-rear-disks-and-pads/
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