2zz With C60 Swap

Write up for installing 2ZZ-GE with C-60 into MK1. If you choose to use an alternate transaxle, you will encounter other variables. Ill try my best to remember everything and add part #’s where applicable.

1. Mounting Points- All 3 transaxle mounts can be used from the C-52. Some fab work is necessary for the passenger motor mount.

2. Evap/Fuel system – make returnless, somewhat extensive
*check the other board for write-up with pics on making a return system returnless*

3. Slave cylinder – minor requires 3/16 female to male M12 coupling (brake fitting) From the firewall chassis fitting to 3/16″ aluminum brake line. Use tube bender to make custom bends. Attach to the C-60’s slave.

4. Header – reweld flange or contact David Lea (LittleRocket) who sells Brad Bedell’s header. I custom frabricated my own B-Pipe. Bedell may eventually have a B-Pipe available.

5. Axles – 91+ MR2 N/A non-ABS

6. Power Steering Pump removed – 1ZZ Idler pulley PN:13570-22010

7. Coolant/Heater hose – custom setup, many ways to do this.

8. Clutch selector cable bracket – Moddified C-52 bracket to sit higher on the C-60

9. Transaxle Mod – Note: I used a transaxle from a JDM Fielder which is like that of the Matrix/Vibe. I had to reverse the select lever to exit the front of the housing. Using the Celica version does not require this mod. PapoJ rotated the selector lever 180* to match the cables, but used a C-52 bellhousing. This allowed for him to use the C-52 cable bracket in the factory location. I modified my C-52 bracket to sit higher like it did on the original transaxle. All internal springs, clips, select levers, etc. were swapped from the Fielder’s select lever shaft to the Celica’s version select lever shaft.

Celica select lever shaft. PN: 33261-20080

9. Dipstick and Tube – MRS 1ZZ
– some minor tweaking was required to get it to fit.
Dipstick PN: 15301-22040
Guide(tube) PN: 11452-22040

10. Fuel Line – filter to fuel rail. I cut banjo fitting from the fuel line of the 4AGE where it mates to the filter and the quick-connect from the 2ZZ fuel line where it attaches to the fuel rail. These fittings were already barbed and inserted into 5/15″ fuel injection hose. *Dont Use Fuel/Evap Hose* Its not rated for the higher PSI. Hose clamps should be used as well. 1 hose to connect the 4AGE filter to the 2ZZ rail.

I still have my notes and the JDM Pinouts(wiring diagram), Connector Chart and Fuse/Relay Box for the early version of the Fielder/RunX/Alan in PDF format. Extensive…

This is how I have wired mine thus far.

I used the molex(N1) in the trunk and M1 and M2. I picked up mating connectors from the salvage yard. These were mated to coresponding wires of 2 of the ECU connectors, engine harness connectors and the added fuse box.

I used the fuse box from the Fielder to incorperate other fuses and relays. One of the relays was made the C/Open and also used the EFI relay and fuse for the EFI system. Unused fuses, relays and associated wiring were scrapped.

I basically used the MR2’s fusebox to run some of the components intended. The Fielder’s box was used to supply power to parts of the system I didnt think I could reconfigure. I was basicly trying to wire the 2ZZ as the engine would have originally been wired, basicly for OBD2 purposes.

The two systems are wired differently and being that I am no expert tried to do this in the most simple fashion for my understanding. The principles between the two systems are similar, but routing is different.

On a cpl of other notes, this being an OBD2 system, it only has one O2 sensor. I found this suprising, but I guess there are different regulations in Japan.

The Celica’s pinout indicates 2 O2’s where this system only has wiring for 1, which splices into the OBD2 port. I also have the Fielder’s exhaust and only 1 4-wire O2 sensor came with it.

The OBD2 port will be in my trunk as opposed to under the dash.

The only thing I havent figured out how to wire up are my oil sending wire, water temp wire and the VSV for the evap. (4age sending unit tee’d into the oil pressure selinoid for VVTL-i. Coolant temp sending unit yet to be installed. I have thought about the blocks drain-cock, but unsure.) I have one plug in the new system I dont have all the pinouts for and Im sure it mates to the oil and water. (I Found this to be incorrect. This connector had wires for the charging system) Im also under the impression that the Celi evap I purchased may be different than that of the JDM version as this schematic doesnt cover that VSV. The Celi’s did cover the wiring for it. This is something Ill have to work around or reconfigure once Im up and running.

Brief summery…

I had a hesitation issue with cam-changeover shortly after the swap. I had thought it was a fuel issue, but wasnt sure. Problem seemed to self correct as the seasons changed and temp dropped. On cooler days, changeover was great, no problems. Warmer (humid) weather and it was back…????

These results were on a Dynojet.

-Brad Bedell header
-My custom 2-1 collector B-Pipe
-Factory Cat with CherryBomb “turbo style” muffler
-B-pipe Collector merges to a 2.5″ into the cat and 2″ from cat exit back

All are SAE: 1.00 corrected, Max HP @ 7400, Max TQ @ 6800

Pull 1 – 158.64 HP 6:19pm
116.07 ft/lb
63.55 deg.
46% Humidity

Pull 2 – 158.29 HP 6:22pm
114.31 ft/lb
63.42 deg.
46% Humidity

Pull 3 – 161.35 HP 6:44pm
117.13 ft/lb
64.72 deg.
46% Humidity

I had originally thought the factory pump may have been limiting the fuel. Not the case… I’m running FAT!!! In all of the runs I was rich, down about 9 something.

The difference on the last run was the motor cooled a bit and we ran a fan for the radiator. It appears the fan also helped with the rich condition. The cooler air may have helped the air/fuel because on the last run I saw a low of about 10.5.

Im thinking if I can get my air/fuel into the 13.5-14.5 area I should be putting down about 169-173 HP. Time to fix some A/F ratios.

Im not sure if its the 4age’s fuel pump combined with the 2ZZ’s pressure regulator making for the wrong combo of parts. Should try the other pump. Or if its the cold air intake that the computer is over compensating for. It seems as if it hesitates more on hot days and not at all on the cooler days.

Im thinking this could also be due in part to a faulty O2 sensor. The one that came with 2ZZ’s downpipe was slightly damaged, though I still used it. It could be that the O2 isnt properly reading the signal.

**It is my understanding that the O2 only monitors in closed loop. I also understand that when under W.O.T. the system goes into open loop, at which time the computer just dumps fuel. …so this may not be my issue. I have considered using an Apex’i VAFC-II piggy-back to help lean it out. Some ppl say that the piggy-back will be over ridden by the factory ECU. I understand this as true, when in the closed loop. But, when under open throttle, your in open loop… At this time the piggy-back will kick in and run your engine at the parameters which you have set. Now some of this is just my theory, but really would like to try and correctly resolve the issue before going piggy-back.


This documentation in no way replaces the Toyota MR2 Repair Manuals. The purpose of this content is only to provide supplementary information to fellow MR2 enthusiasts. Midship Runabout and its contributing authors will not be held responsible for any injury or damages that may occur as the result of practicing any of the methods or procedures described within this website. Article and photo submissions are property of the contributing author.

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