Going to be replacing all the bushings with the TRD bushing set, while I have my suspension apart. I’ll try to show the removal of the various suspension pieces. Things may be a little different if you are not replacing everything like I am though.
*Procedure of pressing the bushings out with just 2/3 jaw pullers courtesy of Dale Conner & Bill Merton from MR2 forum
1) Here’s a picture of what all is replaced in the TRD bushing set: strut top (green), control arm (purple), & strut arm (red). So, you need to remove the strut assembly & the two arms. The steering knuckle will be close to being removed, as it will still be attached to the tie rod end. If you don’t believe you need to replace the tie rod end bushing (which you need to purchase the entire end, not just bushing if you do), you can skip that step.
2) I would suggest loosening the strut bar nut first. If you have a deep well 22mm socket, you can use a ratchet. Else, a 22mm wrench will work.
3) Loosen lugnuts. Raise and support the front of the vehicle. Remove wheels.
4) Just for sake of simplicity for this page, I’m going to point you to other pages where I go over the strut assembly and steering knuckle removal. If you do not want to replace the strut top, or have the Fensport bushing set (which does not include a new strut top) then you do not need to remove the strut assembly.
5) Measure the length of ‘A’ below, so that caster can be put back to the correct spot.
6) Remove the strut arm from the control arm, by removing the two 17mm nuts.
5) Remove the bolt that you loosened in step 1. You should then be able to remove the strut bar. Here’s some pics of it.
And disassembled. The 2 bushings (green arrows) are to be replaced by TRD ones. And the collar (red arrow) needs to be replaced with a new one from the dealer.
6) If you aren’t replacing the ball joints, skip this step.
I’d suggest removing the ball joint from the control arm at this point. Unless you have a vice handy. I placed a jack under the control arm to raise it up and then use a 2 or 3 jaw puller to pop it out. Beware, the ball joint will literally POP up once it is loose. So keep away from inside the fenderwell while you tighten the puller. (The below picture was taken before I actually got the ball joint off. That’s what the strut arm is there, and the jack isn’t.)
7) Remove the 17mm bolt holding the control arm to the frame of the car.
Here’s a pic of the control arm out of the car (ball joint is still in place):
8) If you’ve noticed, there’s only one bushing per side that needs pressed out in the front, the one in the end of the control arm. Here’s some pics of how I went about doing it. The “pusher” part of the puller I used was big enough that it didn’t fit inside the bushing, so I was able to just use it, instead of using a stack of washers. It would probably be easier to put the control arm in a vice, but since I didn’t have one at the time, I tried it without. It was surprisingly easy, just have the cheater bar handy. Here’s some pics of the different steps as I was pushing it out with a 2 jaw puller.
Front Control Arm Bushing Install
1) Here’s a pic of the new TRD bushing beside the control arm. Notice the tapered end, you will need to press that end in first.
2) Lube up the bushing with some grease. I just used some white lithium grease, since that’s all I had around. Silicone grease would probably work better.
3) Carefully position the 2 parts in a table vise and start squeezing the bushing in. Make sure everything is going in straight. It may help to have an extra pair of hands to help hold and turn the vise handle.
4) After a while, you will not be able to push the bushing in any further without damaging your vise. Trust me on this…my brand new vise now has a slightly bent handle.
5) Quickly reposition the control arm in the vise, and place your 2 jaw puller over the bushing. Use a few fender washers to disperse the force so that the entire bushing is pushed in instead of just the middle piece. Don’t just use one or 2 washers either, use at least 3 or 4. The bushing laughs at using just 2 washers, as they will just bend and be destroyed like crazy. Use some tape or super glue to hold the washers in place while you position the puller. An assistant is nice here as well.
6) Eventually after applying much force onto the bushing (you may need to use a cheater bar to turn the puller), You can see the other end popping out and locking the bushing into place.
7) Remove the puller once you are certain the bushing is all the way in. And clean up the excess grease.
8) Install the control arm back onto the car. Do not tighten al the way to spec yet.
Front Stut Bar Bushing Install
This should be fairly straightforward.
1) Here’s the pieces how they go back onto the strut bar:
2) Place one of the nuts to the original position. Remember the measurement you took back in step 1? Then place one of the retainers, a new collar, and a bushing. Notice the smaller end of the bushing is toward the end of the strut bar.
3) Then place the strut bar back on the car. Add the other bushing, retainer, lock washer and the other nut. Start tightening the nut down. Insert the 2 bolts at the end of the strut bar to the control arm, once the nut pulls the bushings tight enough.
4) Here’s the strut bar and control arm in place with their new bushings.
5) Reinstall the various other pieces you removed to get to the suspension arms.
6) Before attaching the wheel, jack up the corner of the car via the control arm. Raise it up until it gets into it’s normal position, as if the car was lowered onto the ground. Tighten the suspension arms’ nuts and bolts to spec. This is so the bushings aren’t twisted when the wheels are installed & the car is lowered to the ground.