I thought I’d post some pictures I took while unpacking and installing my personal ATS TD06 kit, as well as some useful pointers.
(note: these pictures are over a year old, and there have been some subtle changes to the kit, so your kit may not appear EXACTLY the same as the one pictured)
Here is a picture of the kit in it’s packaging, after I removed it from the box:
Here is the kit unpacked:
(note: the turbine housing ceramic coating is optional. All adapters come ceramic barrier coated as a standard feature of the kit)
Here is a close-up of the turbocharger:
Here is the turbo after I spent an hour or so, polishing the compressor housing:
Here is a picture of the kit after I polished the turbo, down pipe, and dump tube. The down pipe and dump tube have a fine, semi-polished finish, so it only took a couple of minutes to bring the shine up by hand.
First install the adapter to the manifold:
Next, install the turbo to the adapter:
Next, install the down pipe to the turbo:
Install the oil feed line to the block, using the supplied fitting. (note, the fitting pictured is different on my kit, because I had a 5S block, which was drilled and tapped for 1/8 BSPT)
Now bolt the oil drain line to the turbo, using the flanged connection. After that, you can install the manifold, turbo, and down pipe into the car as a unit, which I feel is one of the strengths of this kit. The complete assembly is quite heavy, so get a friend to help with this part if you can.
Once the assembly is in the car, reinstall the exhaust manifold nuts. After they are secure, you can attach the oil feed and return lines. The return line attaches to the stock rubber elbow that comes off the oil pan, and normally attaches to the metal CT26 oil return pipe:
This is a good time to install the down pipe support bracket to the block:
Now you will measure the distance and routing for your water feed and return lines, and cut them to length. We leave this part for the end user, in case they have custom requirements, due to a 5S block and water lines, etc. Here is how I routed my lines, using the 3S water pipes:
Note: if you’ve never cut SS hose, the easiest way is to wrap black electrical tape around the diameter of the hose where you are going to cut, then use either a hacksaw, or an air powered cutoff wheel to make the cut. Rinse the hoses out well afterward.
You can go ahead and reinstall your b-pipe, if you haven’t already, and you are finished underneath the car.
Now that all the lines are installed, assemble the dump tube to the wastegate, and then install them as a unit to the manifold adapter. [b]Do NOT use the gaskets supplied with the Tial wastegate. The flanges have a smooth enough finish to seal without the gaskets, and the gaskets invariably blow out within 48 hours of install.[/b]
Go ahead and install the O2 sensor, and your hot pipe, intake, etc. The rest of the install is a piece of cake.
Here are some more pictures:
Boost Control and wastegate line routing
If you are using an MBC, leave the port on top of the wastegate open to atmosphere. Route a vacuum line from the hose barb on the compressor to the “In” on the boost controller. Run another line from the “Out” on the boost controller to the side port on the wastegate.
If you are using an EBC, you can either connect it as above, or if it has a switch to change the logic to control an external gate, like the Blitz DSBC and SBC-iD, you run a line from the barb on the compressor, to the side port on the wastegate. Install a T in this line and run a line from the 3rd leg of the T to the “In” on the boost control solenoid. Run a line from the “Out” on the solenoid to the top port on the wastegate. Be sure to set the head unit to “Wastegate”.
(on the DSBC, this is accomplished via a dip switch on the rear of the head unit)
All in all, this is the easiest turbo kit install I have ever performed. Being able to almost completely assemble the kit outside the car REALLY makes it easy, as opposed to other kits I’ve installed, where you had to install the turbo to the adapter, and down pipe to the turbo while lying underneath the car, working in the confined space of the engine bay.
This documentation in no way replaces the Toyota MR2 Repair Manuals. The purpose of this content is only to provide supplementary information to fellow MR2 enthusiasts. Midship Runabout and its contributing authors will not be held responsible for any injury or damages that may occur as the result of practicing any of the methods or procedures described within this website. Article and photo submissions are property of the contributing author.