Fuel Line Upgrade to AN Fittings and Braided Lines

Fuel Line upgrade to AN fittings and braided lines.


Parts were all ordered from Summit Racing.

For the section between the fuel tank and stock fuel filter, I used 21.5 inches of -6 AN braided line.

1 EAR-300106 Fitting, Hose End, Straight, -6 AN, -6 AN Adapter, Aluminum, Red/Blue. This goes from the stock tank fitting to the braided line.

1 EAR-309106 Fitting, Hose End, 90 Degree, -6 AN, -6 AN Adapter, Aluminum, Red/Blue. This one connects to the other end of the braided line, and couples to the filter adapter.

1 EAR-991945 -6 AN hose end to 12 mm x 1.25 in., anodized blue. This goes into the bottom of the stock Toyota fuel filter, and connects to the 90 degree fitting.

Teflon tape.

Here’s the 90 degree fitting, and the adapter for the bottom of the fuel filter.

This is the stock -6 AN coupler from the fuel tank to the stock fuel filter. Undo this with a 17 mm wrench on the left side, and a 14mm on the right. Only turn the 14mm, and keep the 17mm steady so you don’t stress the stock hardline to the tank.


Remove these 2 12mm bolts.

Now undo the bottom fuel filter banjo bolt. 17mm wrench. Careful not to scrape your knuckles. Not pictured, I removed the bottom frame brace for more room to work (2 14mm bolts).

Fuel dripping into bucket.

Removing the stock line.

There it is, the whole point of upgrading this line is to get rid of the rubber sections.

Teflon tape on the stock fitting for a leak free seal.

Tightened up. Don’t overtighten, you can hurt the fittings and create a big leak.

The fuel filter -6 AN adapter.

Teflon tape.

In place, and added teflon tape to the bottom side.

90 degree fitting tightened up.

Added some foam pipe insulation to protect the braided line from rubbing on anything.

I bent the large fuel pipe out a 1/2 inch or so, and loosened the 10mm nut a bit as well for some more room.

When I put the stock metal heat shield back on, I bent it out of the way as well. All done with this lower section.

This documentation in no way replaces the Toyota MR2 Repair Manuals. The purpose of this content is only to provide supplementary information to fellow MR2 enthusiasts. Midship Runabout and its contributing authors will not be held responsible for any injury or damages that may occur as the result of practicing any of the methods or procedures described within this website. Article and photo submissions are property of the contributing author.

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2 Responses

  1. neil says:

    I know this is an old post but I just came across it. Great write up and very useful for the part sizes – the only bit I’m not sure about is the AN6 fitting connecting directly into the fuel tank hard line…should there be an adaptor in there to connect the AN6 to the double flare hard line…I guess if you and the car are still around then it must have worked out OK.

  2. Nick Drake says:

    I understand that this post was intended to help others, but this is terrible advice and should be taken down. The flare fitting on the factory hardline is SAE, meaning that the sealing surface is at 45 degrees. AN/JIC fittings use a 37 degree sealing surface. While the thread pitches match the two can NOT be used together. Information on this is readily available on the web or from any industrial hose supply shop.

    In addition you should NEVER use teflon tape on any flare fitting. The seal comes from the tapered 37 degree flare surfaces, no fluid will ever pass this point. The only time to use teflon tape is on tapered pipe fittings, where the seal actually occurs via the threads.

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