8 Here you can see a white coat hanger has been pushed through from the ashtray area to the wires, and some tape has been placed around them. Pull the coat hanger back through to the ashtray. You should have 2 14 gauge wires, and one 16 gauge.
9 Here is the black and red wire pulled through to the ashtray area.
10 Here’s the 16 gauge wire pulled through. Notice that the Fuel Sender Door has been replaced, and the fuel sender clip is unplugged, don’t forget to plug it back in.
11 The 1st 14 gauge wire (red one in this pic) goes to the Fuel Pump blue wire. The 2nd 14 gauge wire (black one in this pic) goes to the Fuel Pump white wire. The 16 gauge wire (gray in this pic) goes to both blue wires on the left side with the black sheath.
12 Solder them up, or use quality connectors.
13 Tape or shrink wrap to finish them.
14 Move on to the frunk. Solder the connections as described at the beginning of this article. For the inline fuse, be sure to use a 20 amp instead of 30 even if it’s a 30 amp socket, and place it between the battery and the relay on terminal 87.
15 Secure and cover everything.
16 Once this is done, check everything 10 times, then reconnect the battery.
17 Put a super special service tool (paperclip) into the diagnostic box near the pressure sensor. You want to connect +B and FP.
Turn the Key to the on position (DO NOT START THE CAR). Listen for the sound of fuel rushing through the fuel rail. If you can hear it, you are done!
This documentation in no way replaces the Toyota MR2 Repair Manuals. The purpose of this content is only to provide supplementary information to fellow MR2 enthusiasts. Midship Runabout and its contributing authors will not be held responsible for any injury or damages that may occur as the result of practicing any of the methods or procedures described within this website. Article and photo submissions are property of the contributing author.
