Here’s some info on how to swap out the fuel pump in a MKII MR2. This took me at least 8 hours of actual work. I broke it up over a period of about a week and a half though. It was not my favorite job. In fact, this was probably the worse job I’ve done except for the in car timing belt change. Lots of hassle getting in and out from under the car every few minutes looking for a tool, or checking something. Then, when the everything is done, and you’re putting the tank back in, it has to be positioned just right or the strap with the pin won’t go back on because the tank is an inch or two out of line. Anyways, only use this as a supplement to the BGB please. I don’t want anyone using this and getting into trouble, or hurting themselves. I’ll mainly just highlight the pictures with minimal text where needed.
Before you star working, disconnect the battery. Disconnect both terminals in case you somehow get a tool to touch both a terminal and a part of the car, nothing will spark. Be careful of fuel from this point on. Do not use, let, or cause anything to ignite the fuel or fumes. It is very dangerous to work with exposed gasoline, treat it with respect, I’m not responsible for anything that happens to you or to your car, or your garage and house!
Ok, raise the car up. I only gave myself 15 inches at the front of the car and about 18 at the rear. It was tough to move around under there and I’m not a big dude, so if you can, give yourself more area to work.
Here’s the interior parts that have to be removed.
Here’s the actual parts for the tank removal.
2 Shift knob, and surround removed. Once the armrest and storage box are removed, take the ashtray out, and underneath it are two screws which must be removed.
3 The 3 connectors that have to be unplugged before you can completely pull the dash out.
4 Better pic of the 3 connectors.
5 There is a black cap with 2 10mm bolts that hide the fuel pump sender and fuel pump wiring. Remove that, and undo both clips as shown.
6 Get underneath the car, and take a look at the underbody plastic. This is a pic from the rear facing to the front. Remove the pieces from the front to the back, then when you put them back on, go from the back to the front.
7 Looking further down…
8 The last one that has to be removed. The one under the radiator does not need to be removed.
9 Another pic of the first one to remove.
10 Now looking from the middle of the car to the rear. I have already undone some of the others towards the front.
11 These rear two are always a puzzle to put back on unless you memorize how they are positioned or have a picture.
12 Now undo the lower tank heat shield. 3 10mm nuts Notice I have the turbo removed. It will probably be tight with a stock turbo on the car, and you may have to work from above and below on some of them.
13 Remove the top tank heat shield. 3 10mm nuts
14 Ok, here are all of the tank connections that have to be separated.
15 Fuel filler hose is first. 10mm hose clamp
16 Lower hose one undone. Pinch type hose clamp
17 Return hose. 10mm hose clamp
18 Now remove this ventilation thingy here. 10mm nut
19 Once undone, you can reach the first hose towards the top. Pinch clamp
20 Once that one is removed, you can reach the lower two. Pinch clamps
21 Reference pic for how they go back on.
22 Vent thingy removed.
23 The vent thingy itself.
24 Here I’m below the car with one gloved hand holding onto two wrenches illustrating how to separate the main fuel pump line. Use one wrench in your left hand and another in your right. DO NOT MOVE THIS LINE AS IT IS BRACED WITH A BOLT TO THE TANK, AND WILL BEND POSSIBLY CAUSING A LEAK OR OBSTRUCTION IN THE LINE. Just go slow, and get a good grip before you turn the fitting. Your right hand will do all of the turning, and your left will hold the filter side of the fitting steady, and stop it from turning. Mine moved tough at first for a few threads, then easy for a few revolutions, and finally tough again just before it separates. Go slow, be careful on this step.
25 Here’s the fitting separated.
26 Now, be sure to break the seal on the main filler pipe all the way around. Mine came out by dropping the tank a little, not by me pushing it off (advice on this part came from Scott Perez, thanks!)
27 Remove the 4 bolts holding the parking brake intermediate lever.
28 Here it is undone. Drop it to the passenger side of the car. 4 bolts
29 In my hand is the Number 1 Center Floor Crossmember, remove this. 2 bolts
30 The following few pictures show some of the bolts for the Air Conditioning, and Coolant Lines. They are usually located right next to each other, and you have one of each on each side of the tank for a total of 4 lines with about 6 bolts 10mm bolts each holding them to the body of the car. Remove these.
31 More A/C and Coolant line bolts…
32 More A/C and Coolant line bolts…
33 This is the Number 2 Center Floor Crossmember removed to show you what it looks like.
34 Here it is on the car, remove it. The tank shouldn’t drop on it’s own, but to be safe, have someone nearby to support it, or use a jack like I did a few pictures down.
35 Here is the Fuel Tank Band. It has one bolt and a pin. Once you remove the bolt, you have to put the band down vertically, and push up on it to get the pin to come out with the band.
36 Here it is on the car.
37 Here’s how I supported the tank. Actually, this is a picture of the tank going back into the car, but you can do the same thing while lowering it.
38 Another support shot…
39 Before you go more than a few inches, check the lines at the rear of the tank and make sure they aren’t binding. Same thing when putting it back in.
40 FREE AT LAST, FREE AT LAST!
41 Get the tank into a good spot to work on, and have some rags or towels available to clean the fuel pump and keep new dirt off of it while you are working. Remove the 10mm fuel supply line bolt.
42 Undo the 5 screws securing the fuel pump door to the tank. Check the seal on the underside of the door, and replace if necessary.
43 Here’s the pump and line.
44 Here’s the pump.
45 Another shot of the pump.
46 Separate the pump from it’s bracket by pulling it free with just your hands. Magic!
47 There is no 47. It’s a secret to everybody!
48 Pop the clip holding the filter off, be careful not to lose it!
49 Here’s where we’re at.
50 Now undo the pinch clamp holding the hose to the pump, and then remove the 8mm and 7mm nuts holding the 12v and ground wires to the pump.
51 The old and the new. They are pretty much identical except for the MR2 pump is 13 years old.
52 Put it all back together with the new pump.
53 Drop it in, and screw it down.
54 Remember to tighten the fuel line to the tank.
55 Tape the fuel sender and fuel pump lines to their normal position so that the fuel pump line doesn’t slide out of reach while you are bolting it all back in to the car.
55.5 Installation is the reverse of removal. When the tank is supported back in the car, and all of the lines and wires are reconnected, check everything once, make sure you haven’t done something stupid, then continue to the next steps.
56 If putting a Supra or Walbro pump in, you probably should swap out the 15 amp EFI fuse for a 20 amp in the engine bay fuse block. You can try to run with the 15 amp fuse, but be sure to keep a 20 amp in the car in case it blows. Personally, I would just put a 20 amp in there now 🙂 It won’t hurt the circuit.
57 You can now reconnect the battery.
58 Put a super special service tool (paperclip) into the diagnostic box near the pressure sensor. You want to connect +B and FP.
Turn the Key to the on position (DO NOT START THE CAR). Listen for the sound of fuel rushing through the fuel rail. Get under the car and look for leaks anywhere. Double check. Triple check. Use your hands to feel for fuel on the main supply line. Quadruple check. If you don’t find any, you can continue buttoning things up. YOU DID IT!