While replacing the oil cooler lines, I went ahead and replaced the oil filter adapter o-rings. I purchased new ones from Toyota, about $6 total. I would recommend changing the oil cooler lines as well if you hadn’t already.
Part #s: 90029-20013 & 96732-31060 (need 1 of each, circled in red)
Also, the washer for the bolt that holds the oil filter sandwich to the block, circled in green, $9! list (I had to pay $4…).
Part #: 90201-19272
- O-rings for filter adapter and sandwich, $6
- Washer for union bolt, $4
- New oil & oil filter
1) Jack up rear of car and support on jack stands.
2) Drain oil and remove oil filter.
3) If you have AC skip to step 4.
Unfortunately, you have AC, and will need to remove the compressor to make getting to the bolts easier. I’m not terribly certain that you have to remove the compressor to do just these o-rings. Since I needed to remove the AC to do the oil cooler lines, I had the AC off already. So decide for yourself if this is necessary, when you get your hands dirty. Here are the steps to remove the compressor anyway:
Loosen the 15mm idle pulley bolt from above. (Ignore the fact that the timing cover is off, I reused a pic from a previous repair.)
Loosen the idle pulley bolt, 14mm I believe.
Now remove the four long 12mm bolts that hold the AC compressor to the engine. Before you get the last bolt all the way loose, tie the compressor up, so that it does not hang by its wires and hoses.
Circled in green are 2 of the bolts. There are 2 more on top side which you can’t see. The one on the passenger side top, you need to get your rachet extension in between the 2 pipes to reach it. The compressor rests on the 2 red circled ledges.
Here’s how I tied the compressor to the AC idle pulley bracket. I then wrapped the string around the compressor, and attached the other side around the oil cooler.
4) Remove the 21mm (i think) banjo bolt for the oil cooler line, circled in blue below. Remove the 4 indicated 12mm nuts and bolts (2 each). The bolt circled in red isn’t necessary to remove, but it is 21mm I believe. (No my filter adapter was not this clean, this is a pic of the reinstall 😉
Here it is removed.
5) Now remove the sandwich by removing the 27mm (yes 27mm!) union bolt that holds it in place:
Here’s both parts of the filter assembly
6) Clean everything up…
And place some RTV in the groove for the o-ring and push the o-ring into place.
7) Reattach the oil filter sandwich with the 27mm union bolt. Torque to 33ft-lbs.
Take a look here, how the sandwich is to line up on the engine block. There’s a lil nub that sticks out of the block, which should fit in the hole in the sandwich. On the below pic it is installed incorrectly, and needs to be rotated clockwise slightly.
8) RTV the other piece, and place the new o-ring.
9) Install it onto the filter sandwich. Finger tighten the 4 green circled nuts and bolts. Then start the threads on the banjo bolt, which goes in the hole circled blue. Torque them down to specs: banjo bolt = 22ft-lbs, nuts/bolts = 14ft-lbs. Thread in the bolt cicled in red, and torque to 33ft-lbs
10) Thread on new oil filter.
11) Reinstall the AC compressor, opposite the removal procedure (torque for compressor bolts = 20ft-lbs).
12) Remove car from jack stands, and fill with oil. You may want to wait a few hours at least for the RTV to cure, before running the car. Check for any leaks over the next few days.
Doing just this repair, probably about an hour or so, add 30-45 min to that if you have AC.