How To: Remove Transmission

Remove the engine mount nut and bolt 17mm, then the 3 bolts 14mm to the tranny


The arrow pointing to the left it where I place my flat head screw driver to pry the bell housing a little.


At this point slide under the car and slide the tranny to the wheel side. All its wight will be supported by the cargo strap. FYI the tranny weighs around 65 or 70 lbs. not to heavy

Go back up and lower the tranny using the strap to the ground, slide it out.

Putting it back

Slide the tranny back under the car wrap one of the cargo straps back around the bell housing through engine mount brackets over the strut crossbrace like before.

New part: next place the ratcheting cargo strap around the small end of the tranny. You want to angle the transmission up into place parallel to the engine. You want to zig zag the straps up.

Rotate the tranny in the straps to align the tranny up. I was turning the tranny counter clockwise a few times when I was ratcheting it up.

When you have the tranny line up with the straps slide back under the car and push the tranny up and towards the engine. If its aligned up it will slide into place fairly easy. When you feel the drive shaft slide into the clutch your all most home. Make sure the bolt holes line up and the two pins and it should pop into place. I hand tightened the bolt just under the “pin” next to the header and the lower bolt closer to the firewall, then snug them down. Then put in the top two bolts and work your way around. Do the starter bolts after the Driver side tranny mount is installed.

At this point you should have 5 bolts holding the tranny to the engine. Two large 17mm bolts on top two 14mm on the bottom and one 14mm bolt by the header. reattach the driver top engine mount bracket 3 12mm or 14mm bolts to the tranny then jack the engine/tranny up so you can slide the thru bolt to hold the tranny and engine mount together. The jack under the engine can come out the engine is supported by the two mounts. Then do everything in reverse and don’t forget to fill with gear oil.


Best of all we can use this cap (12mm bolt) at the top of the transmittion to fill with oil (no mess), unbolt and turn, its held in with a gasket


The final step filling with a funnel.

** IF YOU DON”T GET THE PINS TO LINE UP WITH THE BOLT HOLES SOMETHING IS MISS ALIGNED.** most likely the clutch is not centered after a clutch change. Don’t force the tranny in, just lower and check the clutch by loosing a few bolts on the housing and recenter the clutch and tighten it back to spec

This documentation in no way replaces the Toyota MR2 Repair Manuals. The purpose of this content is only to provide supplementary information to fellow MR2 enthusiasts. Midship Runabout and its contributing authors will not be held responsible for any injury or damages that may occur as the result of practicing any of the methods or procedures described within this website. Article and photo submissions are property of the contributing author.


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5 Responses

  1. PHIL says:

    How much trans oil should go in – itll it spills?

  2. Anonymous says:

    I believe its 2 quarts but really 1.8 with LSD.

  3. Brayan says:

    I found this very helpful. thank you for the detailed pics!

  4. Chase says:

    This is being a tremendous help to me right now – thanks very much for taking the time to write this up and taking the photos.

  5. Allan says:

    Is there a pilot bearing or bushing on the input shaft
    Do you or can you turn the input shaft to line up the
    Splines???